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TheFashionRox for LOTL.com - October column In response to the age-old myth that lesbians have no style I present Ms Patricia Field. In 1966 she opened her first signature boutique in New York’s Greenwich Village. Twenty years later she began designing costumes for film and television and her work on Sex and the City earned her critical acclaim and an international following. Now the movie sequel is in production and the gossip rags and fashion blogs are once again obsessed with dissecting every carefully choreographed ensemble. What many of her fans don’t know is that Patricia Field, to quote Carrie Bradshaw, is “gay as pink suede”. The most important lesson to learn from Ditto’s dress sense is that clothes can be used as a creative expression of who you are. She chooses outfits that flaunt her figure and personality rather than camouflaging either. Dress for yourself. Wear what you love and what makes you happy.
The Lesbian Who Changed The Way Straight Women Dress
How fabulous is that? One of the most influential figures in the fashion industry over the past decade is an out and proud lesbian. But in this celebrity-obsessed culture, why is Pat’s sexuality not more widely known? She has never hidden it. The mainstream media just chooses to focus only on the pretty dresses and extravagant shoes. Is it uncomfortable for them to promote the fact that this high priestess of fashion is a gay woman?
I couldn’t help but wonder if it was in fact a good thing that people weren’t hung up on her sexuality, that it was a sign we had moved past it being an issue. But in a world where homophobia and negative stereotypes drastically outweigh the visibility of positive, authentic lesbians in the media, I don’t just want her sexuality not to be an issue, I want it to be recognized and celebrated.
Although Sex and the City revolves around heterosexual storylines many of its creative team are gay, including writer/director Michael Patrick King and leading actress Cynthia Nixon. In Season 4, Samantha even had a lesbian relationship with Maria, the Brazilian artist.
Talking to The Age newspaper about being an out lesbian in the fashion industry Pat said, “I don’t feel a rub about my sexuality. I don’t consider myself a woman or a man professionally. Half the creative industry is gay, so if anything, I would almost say it’s a plus. I mean, I’m not a politician. I don’t work for the government. At the end of the day, I’m a hairdresser.” Hairdresser/creative visionary.
While Pat may not consider her sexuality relevant to her work, it is surely relevant for people, gay and straight, to realize that a lesbian has this much influence on fashion and entertainment. It is also important to challenge and disprove stereotypes that lesbians are badly dressed or that we all look the same.
Pat’s personal style is fiercely feminine, again defying the misconception of lesbians always dressing in mannish clothes. Citing Cleopatra as her fashion icon, her trademark is her cartoonish red hair worn with a mash-up of brightly coloured, skin-flashing outfits.
With Sex and the City, Pat started a fashion revolution. She pioneered the enduring trend for mixing designer with thrift store and inspired women to over-accessorize to their hearts content. She made Manolo Blahnik a household name and Sarah Jessica Parker a style icon.
Many of the looks she created included elements of classic lesbian fashion. One of the very few articles that discuss Pat’s sexuality, 2004 New York Times piece, ‘The Secret Power of Lesbian Style’, describes the “dyke sensibility” she brought to the show, highlighting “the do-rags, newsboy caps and outlandishly femme jewel-box ballerina outfits”. Also deserving a mention are the boy boxer briefs Carrie wore around the house and under her vintage dresses.
Patricia Field is my number 1 lesbian style icon of all time. She is stylish, creative, wildly successful and a true original. She is also the living flame-haired proof that not only can lesbians dress, we can change the way the rest of the world dresses too.
TheFashionRox for LOTL.com - August 2009 column
Beth Ditto, Designer Diva
Beth Ditto is a self-proclaimed "fatshionista". She wears what the hell she wants and now you can wear it too. Her first clothing range is about to be launched by plus size retailer, Evans, to the delight of full figured femmes worldwide.
Fashion Rules Rewritten - the lessons we can learn from this style icon
1. Embrace Your Body
Ditto doesn’t dress how big girls are supposed to. She is not limited by a desire to appear thinner. When people criticise her fashion choices for being “unflattering” they are missing the point. If she was concerned with people knowing what her body looks like would she pose nude on multiple magazine covers? Would she whip her top off mid-performance, even when playing the Fendi fashion party? What makes her iconic is that she doesn’t give a damn. She embraces her body in all its fleshy naked glory and shows it off to maximum effect.
2. Create and Customise
Ditto’s punk mentality applies to her style as well as her music. If you can’t find clothes that fit your body or personality, make your own. She’s a dab hand at turning belts into necklaces and skirts into ponchos.
3. Experiment With Colour
Don’t feel pressured to shroud yourself in dark tunics. While wearing one colour head-to-toe can have a streamlining effect, choosing flattering shades of your favourite colours will light up your face in a way that black can’t. Ditto favours diva purples and blues, which suit her porcelain skin. When she does the monochrome look she gives it a rock chick edge with a slash of red lipstick and thick wings of black eyeliner.
4. For Failsafe Glamour, Go Vintage
A voluptuous woman in a fabulous retro dress can be spectacular. Ditto is drop dead gorgeous in her beaded flapper frock which skims her figure and gives her a movie star glow. She also makes a beautiful prom queen in this red 1950s number. With both of these outfits she has chosen flattering vintage shapes that work with her curves to make her look even more feminine. Many online vintage stores have plus-size sections. If you want to try this look check out www.ballyhoovintage.com for the real deal and www.stopstaringclothing.com for adorable reproduction vintage dresses up to a size XXXL. Both companies are based in America but will ship internationally.
5. Express Yourself
The Range Reviewed
The fat girl fashion blogs are ablaze with excitement. Not only has the world's first Full Figured Fashion Week just been held in New York, but Beth Ditto, style icon to the plus size and the model size, is on the verge of launching her premier designer collection. Finally. A range of clothing for those over a size 14 that doesn't make them look over 40. A fashion line that has been designed for young, hip, hot women who don't just want to blend into the background anymore. Ditto's effort does not disappoint.
The 22-piece capsule collection is sexy, stylish and provocative in a dark disco palette of purples, blues, monochromes and sequins. Instant must-haves include the cropped leather biker jacket, the cheeky black cocktail dress and the rock chick studded shoulder bag. Also essential are the coloured leggings, which feature a supportive waistband to suit fuller figures.
My absolute favourite outfit, which I’m considering going on a diet of doughnuts to fit into, is the 80s print prom dress with the jewel-encrusted belt. I’d wear it with the Lulu-Guinness-inspired clutch for a flirty, femme party look.
I wouldn’t rush to purchase every item. The Dynasty-style embellished jumper dress requires extreme confidence and a good sense of humour. And I’m mildly disturbed by the kitten’s face peering out at me from one particular oversized T-shirt. But apparently best mate Kate Moss has already snapped one up so it looks set to be a hit with voluptuous Vogue readers.
Beth Ditto, I salute you. Covetable clothes and accessories to sex up young fatshionistas’ wardrobes. I sincerely hope this collection is the start of bigger things to come.
Clothes available in sizes 14-32, footwear in wide-fitting sizes 4-10. Available online, international delivery available.